Mass appeal

AS Las Vegas restaurants struggle to attract a dwindling pool of recession-struck diners, we've begun to see a trend emerging on menus across the valley: accessibility. From gourmet restaurants offering sliders and steaks to world-class chefs creating casual eateries, the name of the game is to make sure you have something for everyone. This "dumbing down" process is completely understandable, and if it helps bring new customers into restaurants they wouldn't otherwise visit, I'm all for it. But I do worry when the familiar options start to crowd out the more exciting and adventurous cuisine I crave when dining out.

It was exactly that fear that struck me recently when I began to hear that Inka Torero, a west-side Peruvian restaurant, had recently integrated a large number of Mexican dishes into its menu. I'd never eaten at Inka, but had wanted to try it for a while. And as longtime fans began to grumble and whisper about the new, more accessible offerings, I began to wonder if I would still be able to get a true Peruvian meal there.

It turns out my fears were unfounded. My wife and I recently paid Inka Torero a visit with a pair of the restaurant's longtime fans who were also anxious to see what changes had transpired. What we found was a large menu filled with Peruvian dishes, and a considerably smaller insert packed with Mexican standards. My friends were relieved to see none of their favorites had been removed from the menu, and together we began to order up a feast from the main menu, ignoring the Mexican options altogether.

Being completely unfamiliar with Peruvian food, I found the menu a treasure chest, packed with new and exotic dishes, many unlike anything I'd ever seen before. The appetizers ($6.75-$14.95) rely heavily on potatoes, boiled eggs and various pepper sauces, although you'll also find options like sliced octopus in black olive sauce ($9.95) and green mussels with lime juice, green onions and tomatoes ($7.75). Seafood lovers have choices like grilled mahi mahi in a creamy spinach and basil sauce ($12.50), a seafood and rice broth known simply as arroz con mariscos ($12.95), or jalea imperial, a plate of crispy fried shrimp, octopus, calamari, mahi mahi and potatoes in a Spanish golf sauce ($16.95). The pork section of the menu features a fried pork sandwich made with onions, cilantro and fried yam slices ($7.95), pork stewed in red wine, vinegar and herbs, served with beans and rice ($9.95) and deep fried pork topped with ancho sauce ($10.95).

They have seven chicken dishes, including aji de gallina -- strips of chicken breast in a sauce made with yellow pepper, parmesan cheese and pecans ($10.95) -- and tallarines verdes con milanesa -- spaghetti and chicken in spinach and basil sauce ($10.95). The beef dishes are just as intriguing. Lomo de acho, for example, is grilled beef tenderloin in a Peruvian panca pepper sauce ($12.95). And lomo a lo pobre is tenderloin garnished with fried plantains, fried eggs, French fries and rice ($14.95).

With so many incredible sounding options, I relied heavily on the recommendations of my friends and our waiter. We had papa la huancaina, a tasty starter of boiled potatoes in a thick creamy Aji pepper sauce adorned with boiled eggs and olives ($6.75), and a very similar starter of a potato and aji patty stuffed with chicken ($8.25). One of my friends had a beautiful and delicious bright-green chicken soup heavily accented with fresh cilantro ($7.25).

For our entrees, we began by sharing a mixed ceviche ($12.95), which had a large portion of mahi mahi, calamari, shrimp and scallops marinated in a tasty mix of lemon juice and peppers and served on a large platter with onions, corn and yams. But my favorite dish of the night was skewered beef heart slices ($8.75). While nobody at the table had eaten hearts before, we were all pleasantly surprised by how tender they were. And while there was a clear hint of organ meat in their taste, they remained a bit (forgive the pun) heartier than typical offal offerings. But what really made this particular dish so delicious was the Peruvian pepper sauce in which the meat was marinated.

I can't wait to get back to Inka Torero and dig a little deeper into their Peruvian delicacies. And I'm relieved their efforts to reach out to a broader audience haven't limited my opportunity to explore their real specialties. While I'm sure the Mexican menu is equally delicious, I'll leave it to those who aren't as adventurous -- hoping its wider appeal will assure I'm still able to get the more exotic items for a long time to come.